Borlotti Beans

Snow blanketed the ground when I set out for the Bürkliplatz market on Tuesday morning. As I descended into the valley the snow cover lightened even as the heavy grey clouds condensed. Getting off at the tram at the lake, the fog rolling in needled and stung my face. The market stalls were each swathed in plastic, bundled tight against the freezing mist.

I ducked under the plastic sheeting and my eyes scanned the tables of produce, avoiding the gaze of the clerk as I assessed my options. As I scanned, I carefully noted the origin of each item to ensure that everything I purchased had been grown by the vendor. I was pleased to find laura potatoes, celery root, and gelb ruebli, a bitter yellow carrot.

The borlotti beans were a welcome surprise, tucked almost out of sight in a flat box their tight smooth skins gleaming subtly. I held my breath as I peered over to read the sign. “Eigen 100g- 2CHF” It’s amazing how happy that simple bag of beans made me. I couldn’t resist peeking in the jingling paper sack while the tram rumbled towards home, admiring the delicate shades of taupe and cranberry while I composed soup recipes in my head.

Waiting for them to soak was excruciating, and the cooking seemed to take an eternity, but my patience was rewarded with the best dinner we’d had in a month. I opted to let the beans star and prepared them simply, with just a bit of olive oil and fresh herbs. The beautiful beans, creamy and earthy were warm and filling. They made a lush counterpoint to a heap of bitter and garlicy sautéed chard. I rounded out the meal with baked potatoes drizzled in olive oil, and caramelized apple and pear sauce.

Super Simple Borlotti Beans

400g Borlotti Beans, soaked for at least 6 hours or overnight

¼ onion, peeled and cut into two pieces

½ carrot, peeled and cut into two pieces

1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled

1 sprig rosemary and 1 sprig of thyme

Olive oil and Salt to taste, as garnish at end

Put everything in a medium sauce pan. Cover with water, so that beans are submerged by about 2 inches. Simmer beans at just below a boil until beans are creamy and tender, at least 1 hour depending on the freshness and size of the beans. Do not salt the water until the last five minutes of cooking, if at all. Remove herb stems and vegetable chunks. Keep in liquid until serving. Drain with a slotted spoon sprinkle with a scattering of chopped rosemary, then drizzle generously with olive oil and salt.

A few thoughts:

Only add hot water in order to keep the beans well submerged. Cold water will slow the cooking process badly. (And please, from a kettle not the tap. Hot tap water is full of crud.)

Here in Zurich the water is full of minerals. It’s delicious, but it seems to mean that beans take forever and ever to get soft. Be patient. These beans took about 2 hours, but they got there.

The beans will keep, in their cooking liquid for at least 4 days. They can be added to soups or used like canned beans from there.